River Cruise Advisor

Vienna Waits For You.

The Christmas Markets of Vienna, Austria are as stunning at the city itself. Photo © 2014 Aaron Saunders

Aaron Saunders, Live Voyage Reports

December 3, 2014

Before dawn, Viking River Cruises’ Viking Baldur silently came alongside in Vienna, Austria. Which is a bit of a misnomer; ships can’t actually come alongside in Vienna simply because the Danube doesn’t run through the historic city center. Instead, they dock further out, near what could best be termed ‘Modern Vienna.’

Three Vikings, side-by-side in Vienna. Photo © 2014 Aaron Saunders

Vienna is a bit like Paris or New York: you can spend weeks here admiring just the museums and never scratch any of the city’s other charms, like it’s historic cafes, opera houses, grand hotels and notable monuments like the Wiener Riesenrad (literally the ‘Viennese giant wheel’) – a Ferris wheel that has adorned the Prater since 1897.

Of course, it being December, our explorations would be focused solely on Vienna’s magnificent Christmas Markets. There’s over a dozen in all, and you’d need to spend days here to even have a hope of scratching the surface.

How do you get to Vienna? You can take a bus tour…or come with Viking’s guides as they show you how to use the Viennese U-Bahn system! Photo © 2014 Aaron Saunders

Viking gives guests plenty of choices here in Vienna, though. For first-time visitors, a comprehensive city tour is offered along the Ringstrasse, the ring road that encircles historic Vienna. This is coupled with a walking tour of Vienna’s major city sights, and the option to return to the cozy Viking Baldur for lunch or to return via one of the continuously-running shuttle busses that pick up passengers from the Schwedenplatz.

The Gothic interior of St. Stephen’s Cathedral – less than half an hour away from the ship if you take the subway. Photo © 2014 Aaron Saunders

If you’ve been here before – or are up for a bit of adventure – Viking offers a tremendous excursion that I wish would catch on with more river cruise lines. From the ship, they’ll walk you approximately 600 feet to the Reichsbrucke – or Reichs Bridge, where you’ll ascend a set of stairs and walk along a pedestrian path inset into the bridge deck. From there, you’ll be guided to the Vorgartenstrasse U-Bahn subway stop. Total walking distance: perhaps 10 minutes.

Then, you’ll be shown how to purchase your €2.20 one-way ticket, validate it (this is important!), and catch the U1 Red Line train towards Stephanplatz, where you will disembark and emerge in the shadow of St. Stephen’s Cathedral.

Vienna’s largest and most famous Christmas Market takes place in front of the Rathaus, or City Hall. Photo © 2014 Aaron Saunders

Once you know how to do this, you’ll never take the shuttle bus again. Traffic can be atrocious as cars and busses approach the Prater, and the drop-off point at Schwedenplatz is still a ten-minute walk to St. Stephen’s Cathedral. The coach can take up to an hour each way. By taking the subway, you accomplish the same journey in less than 25 minutes – and you’re dropped right smack in the heart of historic Vienna.

Being experienced with the subway system in Vienna, I comfortably disembarked Viking Baldur at my own pace and set out for a day of exploration and delicious Gluhwein tasting in one of my favorite European cities!

Photo © 2014 Aaron Saunders

Don’t automatically assume that all markets are created equal; the one in front of the Rathaus, or City Hall, is one of the largest in Vienna, but arguably the most commercial. The place to go for crafts is the tiny Altwiener Christkindlmarkt situated near the end of Freyung Passage not far from the famous Café Central, while the Weihnachtsdorf Maria-Theresienplatz is attractively situated in between the Kunsthistoriches Museum (Art Museum) and the Naturhistoriches Museum (Natural History Museum) at Maria-Theresienplatz. This year, a (very) small market even popped up in front of the Hofburg, the palatial residence of the once-powerful Hapsburg dynasty.

This year, a small market even popped up in front of the Hofburg Palace. Photo © 2014 Aaron Saunders

Each market offers its own unique crafts, food vendors and spiked drinks, all of which are made differently than the last market. Hot beverages like Gluhwein (spiced mulled wine) even come in cups that change with each market, making them highly collectable. They also change the cups roughly every year or so, meaning if you’ve been here before, you’re likely going home with a suitcase full of mugs this time, too. After all – how do you not take home the ‘boot cup’ from the Weihnachtsdorf Maria-Theresienplatz or the heart-shaped cup from the main Frohe Weihnachten Christmas market in front of the Rathaus? You just can’t pass them up!

For me, Vienna is a special city at any time of year – but it is at its most beautiful in the dark, sleepy days of December, when the Christmas Markets are in full swing.

Some photos from our time ashore:

Ornamental Wonders. Photo © 2014 Aaron Saunders

Photo © 2014 Aaron Saunders

No two markets in Vienna are alike…and most are within walking distance! Photo © 2014 Aaron Saunders

If a Carriage ride isn’t your thing…Photo © 2014 Aaron Saunders

…perhaps a warming cup of Gulaschsuppe is? Photo © 2014 Aaron Saunders

Even at Christmas, a stop in one of Vienna’s famous coffee houses is a must. Shown here is Cafe Griensteidl, next to the Hofburg. Photo © 2014 Aaron Saunders

It’s True. Photo © 2014 Aaron Saunders

Of course, you can also check out Vienna’s massive shopping district…Photo © 2014 Aaron Saunders

….or stumble upon an impromptu ceremony! Photo © 2014 Aaron Saunders

Photo © 2014 Aaron Saunders

Of course, after a long chilly day outside, it’s nice to come back to the warm Viking Baldur. One of the things I love most about Viking River Cruises is how ‘at home’ they make you feel, regardless of whether this is your first or fifty-first river cruise. It’s just a nice, relaxing atmosphere that is cultivated onboard, served by a dedicated crew of Europeans and surrounded by the soothing Scandinavian design of the Viking Longships.

Viking Baldur Waits To Welcome You Home. Photo © 2014 Aaron Saunders

Cozy, comfortable – and connected. The laptops shown are available for guests to use to access the internet, which is complimentary. Photo © 2014 Aaron Saunders

If you’ve never tried river cruising before, it is days like today that will turn you into a river cruiser for life. Tonight, Viking Baldur un-docked from her berth at 23:00 and glided silently away from Vienna, bound for the Austrian towns of Durnstein and Melk. Another great Viking day has come to a close – but there’s more to come, as our Danube adventure is far from over.

Until then, I’m turning in to rest my head on Viking’s comfortable pillows after a long day of exploration. And dream of what’s to come.

Photo © 2014 Aaron Saunders

Our Live Voyage Report aboard Viking River Cruises’ Viking Baldur continues tomorrow as we sail for the quaint Austrian towns of Durnstein and Melk! Be sure to follow along on twitter by following @deckchairblog or the hashtag #LiveVoyageReport.

Our full journey:

Illustration courtesy of Viking River Cruises.

Viking Baldur - Danube Waltz Christmas Markets