If I were to choose the perfect river for autumn, it would be the Moselle. Scenes like this one, near Bernkastel, are common during the fall. © 2019 Ralph Grizzle
One big surprise during my cruise on Crystal Bach was the Moselle. It wasn’t my first time on the river, but the weather and the time of year conspired to make the Moselle Europe’s most beautiful river – at least in my view.
On Crystal Bach, we cruised from Amsterdam along with sister ship Crystal Debussy. In Koblenz, Crystal Bach docked with its nose pointed up the Moselle, while Debussy docked in the direction of the Rhine. We each departed, and after a few hours of sailing, my feeling was that we got the better end of the bargain.
The Moselle gave the impression that we were sailing through a gorge, flanked by vineyards running up steep slopes. We docked in fairytale villages, such as Bernkastel and Cochem. Near Trier, in a village called Mehring, we docked alongside a vineyard, which was much preferable than docking in the industrial port in Trier. My photographer friend Mike Louagie and I pedaled 20-plus kilometers each way between Mehring and Trier on sturdy and well-maintained bikes that Crystal provided. The ride was invigorating, through resplendent autumnal landscapes.
Crystal Bach cruising into Cochem, Germany. © 2019 Ralph Grizzle
In fact, I, and others, spent quite a lot of time on bicycles exploring the region at each port of call on guided and independent rides. Strava, my activity tracking app, tells me that I pedaled more than 100 miles during my time on Crystal Bach. Not bad – and much needed to offset my “caloric footprint” from all the great dining on Bach.
Bicycling was a great way to experience the Moselle. © 2019 Ralph Grizzle
Up early one morning, I make myself a cappuccino from the pantry located in the reception area on Crystal Bach. I say good morning to Marita, the always-smiling receptionist who I wrote about in Live From Crystal Bach: Final Impressions As Our Cruise Ends. As we sail along, a mist rose on the river. Marita and I acknowledge the beauty of the quiet morning. “If you want peace,” Marita says thoughtfully, “cruise the Moselle.” Indeed.
I head to the wheelhouse where Captain Douwe is navigating the river. “It’s my favorite river,” says the captain, who adds that he has been sailing for 48 years now, ever since he was a young teen. He tells me that when there is low water on the Rhine, he’ll sometimes deviate to the Moselle. He informs guests, of course, telling them that although the planned route needs to change, they would not be disappointed. “The Moselle is almost always a pleasant surprise for the guests,” he tells me.
The Moselle could not be more different from the Rhine, the latter of which can be industrial in parts, with large factories on either side of the river. Of course, there are some beautiful stretches, particularly through the Rhine Gorge, but the Moselle holds its beauty for the duration.
Earlier during our cruise, Crystal Cruises President and CEO Tom Wolber confessed his preference for the Moselle. “The Rhine river is a river of legends,” he told me. “The Moselle is a river of fairytales.”
What about you? Have you cruised the Moselle? Or do you have aspirations to do so?
I am a vineyard owner in the Finger Lakes
Region of central NY where I grow Riesling and Cabernet Franc. My wife and I would like to explore Moselle. Any advice would be welcome.
Interested in doing a cruise on Moselle river.
Please advise best time to go. Etc. Any discounts?
I lived on a German Air Force Base just above the Cochem Castle. The town of Cochem, on the Moselle River is a beautiful place to visit on an extended stay. There is so much to see and the wineries produced there is the best in the world. I miss it, the wineries & people.
Great advice thanks!
Moselle or Mosel is a beautiful trip. We have done it twice and I highly recommend it. Stopping in Cochem and Bernkastel is a must to get out and walk the streets with all its picturesque buildings and stopping at a wine shop for some of the great wines produced along the Moselle. If your trip ends in Trier stay a few days and wander the city with its Roman sites, one of the oldest cathedrals in Europe and try the bike path that Ralph did.
I loved cruising the Moselle on the Avalon Canals, Vineyards and Paris trip. It was so scenic and peaceful with lovely vistas of verdant vineyards.
Awesome pics and insights into the Moselle experience! particularly in the Fall! I’m in!
Danke!