The story is especially poignant for me after cruising the Mekong on AMAWATERWAYS La Marguerite.

In Phnom Penh, Cambodia, we visited the Killing Fields as well as the torture camp known as S-21.

For me, it was important that my daughter and I saw the Killing Fields and the torture camp so that we would never forget the atrocities committed there, just as it is important to see holocaust memorials and museums. Nonetheless, it was a gut-wrenching day in Phnom Penh, especially when confronted with a tree against which babies were beaten to death.

The New York Times article was of particular interest, and I admit some disappointment in such a light sentence for such horrible crimes.

A grim but necessary morning in Phnom Penh. We visited one of the Khmer Rouge's many 'Killing Fields,' where the renegade regime committed genocidal atrocities during its rule from 1975 to 1979. Our guide (pictured) told us how his father was captured and imprisoned by the Khmer Rouge and how out of thousands at S-31, was only one of six to survive. How? He noticed that the Khmer Rouge used hundreds of padlocks to incarcerate prisoners but had no system to organize the keys, so they were forced to cut the locks with bolt-cutters each time they took a prisoner away (for interrogation and torture likely). Upon arriving at S-31, our guide's father told the guards he could pick the locks, saving the padlocks for future use. Although he had never picked a lock before, he had observed someone doing so years before. Each morning at a cafe in Phnom Penh, the father had watched a shopkeeper pick a padlock to enter his store. In a test before the prison commander, the father succeeded in unlocking 7 of 10 padlocks. As a worker in the prison, he was no longer treated in the same way as prisoners. However, he was shackled each day. Never mind that he could pick the lock any time he wanted to. After the Khmer Rouge was toppled, his father returned to the village where he had been given up for dead.

At The Killing Fields In Phnom Penh. It is estimated that the Khmer Rouge exterminated as much as one third of Cambodian's population between 1975 and 1979.

Phnom Penh's Tuol Sleng Genocide Museum is situated at the site of the notorious Security Prison 21 (or S-21). A former high school, S-21 was used a prison and torture chambers during the Khmer Rouge's rule of Cambodia.

Small prison cells at Phnom Penh's Tuol Sleng Genocide Museum, situated on the site of the notorious Security Prison 21 (or S-21). A former high school, S-21 was used a prison and torture chambers during the Khmer Rouge's rule of Cambodia.

The Avid Cruiser’s Ralph Grizzle talks with the Kristin Karst, vice president of AMAWATERWAYS, about why river cruising is such a great way to see Europe.

My friend Gary McLaughlin, a professional videographer, has produced a couple of informative and inspirational videos featuring AMAWATERWAYS Mekong River cruises. I cruised with AMAWATERWAYS  on the Mekong this past spring, and the cruise definitely rated as one of the top travel experiences of my life. You can see my articles at a mini-site on River Cruise Advisor, Cruising The Mekong. Meantime, enjoy Gary’s videos. The top video is titled, Mekong River Cruises by AMAWATERWAYS. The video below features AMAWATERWAYS Vietnam & Cambodia Highlights. Enjoy!

A wine-lovers dream cruise! AMAWATERWAYS will cruise along the Wine, er, make that Rhine and Mosel rivers on a wine cruise this coming November. In Bernkastel, pictured, visit the castle ruin overlooking the city center of half-timbered buildings and cobblestone streets.

AMAWATERWAYS will offer a “Vineyards of the Rhine and Mosel” cruise this fall, departing November 12, 2010, on the luxurious MS AMALEGRO.

The special 7-night itinerary includes visits to world-famous wineries, off-site dinners hosted by renowned winemakers, onboard lectures and more.  Hosted by AMAWATERWAYS President Rudi Schreiner, the 7-night cruise will travel from Amsterdam to Trier, Germany, followed by three nights in Paris.

Accompanying the cruise will be winemaker Jim Clendenen, owner of the internationally-acclaimed Au Bon Climat winery in Santa Maria, California and Archie McLaren, founder and chairman of the Central Coast Wine Classic.  A portion of the cruise proceeds will be donated to charities supported by the Central Coast Wine Classic, one of the country’s preeminent wine auctions.

Moselle River cruises offer wine tastings in such wine villages as Cochem, settled by the Celts and later by Romans before being granted a town charter in 1332.

Cruise Highlights Include Dinners & Wine Tastings

Highlights of the “Vineyards of the Rhine and Mosel” itinerary include a dinner and wine tasting with a representative from the renown Georg Breuer winery at the Ruedesheimer Schloss in Rudesheim, Germany.  The scenic Rhine Gorge town of Rudesheim is famous for its quaint wine taverns and surrounding vineyards, including the family-owned Breuer estate.

In Koblenz, guests will discover a 2,000-year old wine town at the confluence of the Mosel and Rhine Rivers.

Mosying Along The Mosel

Continuing through the Mosel river valley, the world’s steepest vineyards and certainly one of the world’s most beautiful rivers, picturesque villages and charming wine towns appear at every turn. During the cruise from Koblenz to the riverside wine town of Winnigen, guests will enjoy an exceptional luncheon, with menu items paired with wines from the Heymann-Lowenstein winery.

In Cochem, guests will discover perfectly preserved timber-framed homes, medieval squares and the spectacular Reichsburg Castle perched above the Mosel.  A welcoming wine fest awaits in the Mosel town of Zell, famous for its “Zeller Schwarze Katz” (Black Cat) wine.

An evening wine tasting in a local underground wine cellar showcases the area’s famous varietals.  In Bernkastel, guests will enjoy a walking tour followed by a wine tasting at the Wine Museum hosted by Michael Stahlmann from the famous Dr. Loosen winery.   Strategically located in the heart of the Mosel wine-producing region, Bernkastel boasts more than 500 years of documented wine history, and is known as “the international town of vine and wine.”

Situated on the Moselle River is the Romanesque city of Trier, Germany’s oldest city and also one that claims to be 1,300 years older than Rome itself. Trier's Porta Nigra (Black Gate) dates from the 2nd century, when Trier was a Roman city.

Of course, throughout the cruise, guests will enjoy gourmet dining accompanied by complimentary local wines (plus beer and soft drinks) at dinner.  Additional AMAWATERWAYS amenities include French Balconies, complimentary 3G high-speed Internet and Wi-Fi; complimentary first-run Hollywood films; complimentary specialty coffees and bottled water, a fleet of bicycles on board plus much more.

After the 7-night cruise, guests will head to Luxembourg for a city tour of the Grand Duchy, followed by a high-speed TGV transfer to Paris.  The three-night stay in the City of Lights includes a guided city tour, plus an exclusive excursion to the Champagne region.

Uniworld will be chartering the River Victoria from a Russian company, starting in May. The design team from Red Carnation Hotels, Uniworld’s sister company, will be working together with its Russian partners on the refurbishment plans, according to Guy Young, president of Uniworld.

Young would not disclose how much is being invested in the refurbishment of the ship, which is being stripped down to its hull.

Series of three cabins are being combined into two, which will create cabins ranging in size between 135 square feet and 210 square feet. The majority of cabins, category 1-3, will be 210 square feet, with 70% of all cabins featuring balconies. Category 4-5 cabins will be 135 square feet and category 6 cabins will be 161 square feet.

There will also be 10 suites: two junior suites at 334 square feet each; six deluxe suites at 269 square feet each; and two presidential suites at 409 square feet each. As part of the refurbishment an elevator will be added and all public areas will be renovated.

The 423 foot-long, 55 foot-wide River Victoria will be a 206-passenger vessel. It has four decks and features a restaurant, bar, library and fitness room.

In 2011, the River Victoria will sail the 13-day Imperial Waterways of Russia itinerary along the Volga River between St. Petersburg and Moscow, as well as the reverse itinerary. Uniworld will operate 12 departures between May 20 and September 29, 2011.

Cruise-only prices range from $3,299 to $3,699, based on double occupancy and not including port charges.

The news comes on the heels of AMAWATERAYS announcing that it is signing a five-year lease on the newly renovated river cruise ship, the 212-passenger Amakatarina, which will set sail on the Volga River on May 10, 2011.

The Amakatarina will replace the company’s existing leased vessel in Russia, the 160-passenger Tolstoy, which will sail through the remaining 2010 season. ”We are overseeing every detail of the ship’s renovation,” said Rudi Schreiner, president of AMAWATERWAYS. “This will allow us to make sure the vessel is perfectly tailored to the high standards that Ama Waterways passengers expect.”

In addition to lending capital, Schreiner said that AMA would consult on the ship’s redesign and interior renovations. The ship is going to be stripped entirely and is being converted from a 400-passenger to a 212-passenger vessel, Schreiner said.

Of the 106 cabins, 76 will feature balconies. There will be 10 cabin categories, including four suite categories, with suites ranging from 280 to 432 square feet.

The ship will have a total of 24,025 square feet of interior space. The public areas will include a restaurant, panorama lounge, conference hall, sauna, bar and nightclub and solarium.

AMAWATERWAYS is offering 11-day itineraries on the Amakatarina along the Volga-Baltic Waterway, including three days in St. Petersburg and two days in Moscow. The cruise also includes visits to Uglich and Yaroslavl, then transit across the two lakes of Onega and Ladoga. The Amakatarina will sail 14 departures for the 2011 season.

Viking River Cruises also plans on completely refurbishing the Viking Pakhomov in Russia, which will undergo a bow-to-stern renovation like those of its sister ships, Viking Surkov and Viking Kirov, relaunched in 2008 and 2009, respectively.

The Pakhomov will feature hotel-style beds and flat-panel televisions. Public areas such as the restaurant, lounges, library and bar will be completely remodeled.

Both ships in 2011 will primarily be chartered by the Australian market but departures for the North American market will be available October through December, 2011.

Just like the newly-built Amabella, the Amaverde will feature staterooms averaging 214 square feet and balconies, multiple dining venues including a restaurant that seats just 24 and has its own private chef, a library, and a swimming pool. There will also be room service for select cabin categories.

The vessels will also feature AMAWATERWAYS’ newly-upgraded infotainment system, offering complimentary high-speed Internet access, complimentary first-run movies and classic films.

All AMAWATERWAYS vessels have complimentary Wi-Fi throughout, French balconies, complimentary wine, beer and soft drinks with dinner and a fleet of bicycles onboard.

The Amabella will be AMAWATERWAYS’ eighth company-owned ship in Europe. The company also charters ships in France, Portugal, Russia and on the Mekong River.

“European river cruising continues to be among the fastest-growing segments of our business, and we’re boosting capacity and expanding our offerings to better serve our guests and our agents,” said Tauck CEO Dan Mahar.

In 2011, Tauck will have 12 itineraries aboard a fleet of its four leased ships, including the Swiss Jewel (launched in 2009), Swiss Sapphire (launched in 2008), Swiss Emerald (launched in 2006) and a new ship set to launch in summer 2011. Tauck will be announcing additional details on the newbuild in the coming months, as well as enhancements to its other river cruise ships for next year, the company said.

Tauck’s two new Rhone River itineraries are the 10-day French Waterways & Vineyards (from $4,490 per person, cruise only, based on double occupancy); and the 14-day French Escapade: Monte-Carlo to Paris (from $5,990 per person, cruise only, based on double occupancy).

French Waterways & Vineyards begins with an included two-night stay in Paris. Guests then board the high-speed TGV train to Lyon to begin their seven-day cruise, which includes stops in Vienne, Tournon, Valence, Viviers, Avignon, Roussillon and Arles.

The French Escapade: Monte-Carlo to Paris itinerary begins with two days in Monte-Carlo and Nice. Guests then travel to Arles to begin their nine-day cruise on the Rhone and Saone rivers that explores Viviers, Tournon, Vienne, Lyon, Macon, Chalon-sur-Saone and Beaune. The trip concludes with two nights in Paris.

The art-themed cruise will set sail on the 140-passenger Avalon Creativity in November 2011.

The Art & Impressionist river cruise through Northern France, will include a visit to the  Musée d’Orsay in Paris, Claude Monet’s Giverny home, and the Musée des Beaux‐Arts André Malraux in Le Havre.

“Our cruise directors and special guest lectures offer a vast onboard education experience, giving cruisers the chance to soak in the history, culture and in this case, the art of a region as they drift from village to village,” said Patrick Clark, managing director of Avalon Waterways.

Avalon’s 8‐day Art & Impressionist cruise is priced from $2,349. For more information about Avalon Waterways’ 2011 themed vacations, please visit www.avalonwaterways.com.

The Mississippi River cruise industry has been all but dormant since Majestic America Line ceased operations at the end of 2008.

But Cruise West is now attempting to resuscitate one of America’s great inland waterways with two new 2011 itineraries aboard the 102-passenger Spirit of America (pictured).

“We’re trying to bring the sleeping beauty back to life,” said Dietmar Wertanzl, president and CEO of Cruise West.

Cruise West is not unfamiliar with the U.S. river cruising industry. In addition to international small-ship coastal sailings the company has itineraries along the Columbia and Snake rivers on its 96-passenger Spirit of ’98 and 84-passenger Spirit of Discovery ships.

For Cruise West, sailing the Mississippi with its Spirit of America ship was a natural extension of its existing U.S. river cruise product, said Wertanzl. “This ship was made for U.S. inland waterways and coastal cruising. For us, it’s a perfect fit.”

Unlike the three large paddlewheelers Majestic operated on the Mississippi, which ranged in length from 285 feet to 418 feet, the expedition-style small-ship Spirit of America (formerly the Spirit of Glacier Bay) is 207 feet in length with four decks, including an upper sun deck, and three lower decks with 51 cabins.

While those ships had large dining and entertainment facilities that were viewed by some as themed destinations unto themselves, Spirit of America will be focusing more “on the destinations and the experiences” along the rivers, said Wertanzl.

Originally named the Spirit of Nantucket and built in 1984, the ship was acquired by Cruise West in 2006 and renamed the Spirit of Glacier Bay in 2008, when it was repositioned by Cruise West from the East Coast to Alaska.

Prior to being repositioned to the Mississippi, the U.S.-flagged Spirit of America will receive cosmetic upgrades to its interiors in line with the upgrades Cruise West made in 2008 on its 138-passenger Spirit of Yorktown ship, including new carpeting and furniture.

In 2011, the Spirit of America will sail two 7-night itineraries, one along the Mississippi River from New Orleans to Memphis, and the other along the Mississippi, Ohio Tennessee and Cumberland Rivers from Memphis to Nashville.

There will be eight departures in 2011, with prices starting at $3,499 per person.  The New Orleans to Memphis dates are March 19 and April 16, or the reverse itinerary on April 9 and May 7, 2011. The Memphis to Nashville dates are March 26 and April 23, or the reverse itinerary on April 2 and 30, 2011.

The Mississippi Legacy

In November 2008, Ambassadors International shut down its Majestic America Line brand, taking its three Mississippi ships — the 176-passenger Delta Queen, the 436-passenger American Queen (both pictured above) and the 412-passenger Mississippi Queen — out of service with it.

Six weeks later, RiverBarge Excursion Lines, which operated the 196-passenger River Explorer along the Mississippi, Cumberland, Ohio and Tennessee rivers and the Gulf Intracoastal Waterway in Louisiana and Texas, ceased operations.

Since then, there has been some continued activity in the region, but not much. Blount Small Ship Adventures, formerly American Canadian Caribbean Line, operates the 68-passenger Niagara Prince, which in 2011 will sails three Southern itineraries, from New Orleans to Chattanooga; from Chattanooga to Nashville; and from Nashville to Chicago.

But despite Majestic’s failure in the region, there’s no reason why other operators like Cruise West, shouldn’t have success there, said Rod McLeod, who served from 1999 to 2001 as president and COO of the Delta Queen Steamboat Co.’s then-parent, American Classic Voyages.

“When that market, when there was some health to it, which now goes back 10 years, it’s a very good market with good rates,” said McLeod. “This is destination rich itinerary. There are parts of it that are scenic, there are parts of it that are very industrial. You can liken it to river cruising in Europe.”

Much of the demand actually comes from Civil War enthusiasts, said McLeod. Indeed, Blount just announced that for its 2011 Mississippi River cruise itineraries, four of the sailings will have Civil War authors onboard. And Wertanzl too said Cruise West is keeping its eye on Civil War buffs as potential passengers.

Cruise West is hoping that the limited supply in the region, combined with the pent-up demand since Majestic exited the market will help support its relatively higher price point, which ranges from $3,499 per person to $5,099 per person.

“It’s economy of scale,” said Wertanzl, adding that with only 102 passengers per sailing, “we have to have a higher price point to be profitable.”

Uniworld Boutique River Cruises is introducing a new ship in Portugal next year, the 128-passenger Duoro Spirit, which will replace the 126-passenger Duoro Queen on Uniworld’s Portugal, Spain and Duoro River Valley itinerary.

All the staterooms and suites onboard the Duoro Spirit will have French balconies, hotel beds with fine linens, built-in closets, flat-screen satellite televisions, and complimentary bottled water; each bathroom will be stocked with L’Occitane body products and waffle bathrobes.

The Douro Spirit’s common areas will include a main lounge with full-service bar and dance floor, sun deck with Jacuzzi and a small swimming pool, a restaurant with open seating, fitness room, massage room, beauty salon, and a boutique.

The itinerary includes three nights in Lisbon in a deluxe hotel, and a seven-night cruise from Porto, Portugal to Salamanca, Spain.

Prices start from $2,999 per person, not including airfare, and include all meals with complimentary wine, beer, and soft drinks served with dinner onboard; ten shore excursions by English-speaking local guides; and transfers on arrival and departure days.

There will be 24 departures on the Duoro Spirit next year between April 28 and Oct. 27.