The story is especially poignant for me after cruising the Mekong on AMAWATERWAYS La Marguerite.

In Phnom Penh, Cambodia, we visited the Killing Fields as well as the torture camp known as S-21.

For me, it was important that my daughter and I saw the Killing Fields and the torture camp so that we would never forget the atrocities committed there, just as it is important to see holocaust memorials and museums. Nonetheless, it was a gut-wrenching day in Phnom Penh, especially when confronted with a tree against which babies were beaten to death.

The New York Times article was of particular interest, and I admit some disappointment in such a light sentence for such horrible crimes.

A grim but necessary morning in Phnom Penh. We visited one of the Khmer Rouge's many 'Killing Fields,' where the renegade regime committed genocidal atrocities during its rule from 1975 to 1979. Our guide (pictured) told us how his father was captured and imprisoned by the Khmer Rouge and how out of thousands at S-31, was only one of six to survive. How? He noticed that the Khmer Rouge used hundreds of padlocks to incarcerate prisoners but had no system to organize the keys, so they were forced to cut the locks with bolt-cutters each time they took a prisoner away (for interrogation and torture likely). Upon arriving at S-31, our guide's father told the guards he could pick the locks, saving the padlocks for future use. Although he had never picked a lock before, he had observed someone doing so years before. Each morning at a cafe in Phnom Penh, the father had watched a shopkeeper pick a padlock to enter his store. In a test before the prison commander, the father succeeded in unlocking 7 of 10 padlocks. As a worker in the prison, he was no longer treated in the same way as prisoners. However, he was shackled each day. Never mind that he could pick the lock any time he wanted to. After the Khmer Rouge was toppled, his father returned to the village where he had been given up for dead.

At The Killing Fields In Phnom Penh. It is estimated that the Khmer Rouge exterminated as much as one third of Cambodian's population between 1975 and 1979.

Phnom Penh's Tuol Sleng Genocide Museum is situated at the site of the notorious Security Prison 21 (or S-21). A former high school, S-21 was used a prison and torture chambers during the Khmer Rouge's rule of Cambodia.

Small prison cells at Phnom Penh's Tuol Sleng Genocide Museum, situated on the site of the notorious Security Prison 21 (or S-21). A former high school, S-21 was used a prison and torture chambers during the Khmer Rouge's rule of Cambodia.

My friend Gary McLaughlin, a professional videographer, has produced a couple of informative and inspirational videos featuring AMAWATERWAYS Mekong River cruises. I cruised with AMAWATERWAYS  on the Mekong this past spring, and the cruise definitely rated as one of the top travel experiences of my life. You can see my articles at a mini-site on River Cruise Advisor, Cruising The Mekong. Meantime, enjoy Gary’s videos. The top video is titled, Mekong River Cruises by AMAWATERWAYS. The video below features AMAWATERWAYS Vietnam & Cambodia Highlights. Enjoy!

One highlight of our 8-day Mekong cruise: a 20-minute ox-cart ride back to La Marguerite. Click on the photo above to launch a Flickr slideshow.

Sunset in Tan Chau, 20 kilometers from the Cambodian border

Another fascinating day on the Mekong. La Marguerite overnighted in Tan Chau, 20 kilometers from Vietnam’s border with Cambodia. The ship provided boat shuttle service into town last night, and about a third of the ship’s passengers visited the town.

On rickshaws the next morning for a town tour.

The next morning, we shuttled ashore and boarded rickshaws to tour the town of Tan Chau. To Westerners, having another human pull you along on a bicycle-driven rickshaw may seem inhumane, but remember, this is how they make their living. The rickshaw is a common method to public transport.

A visit to the back alleys of Tan Chau

The rickshaw took us to a temple, a traditional silk-weaving factory, a mat-making factory, followed by a walk through the back alleys back to the boat shuttle.

Next we toured by boat along the river.

Afterward, we traveled by boat along the narrow canals to Evergreen Island (the rough translation). Our guide says the only tourists he has ever encountered here are passengers from La Marguerite.

Boat life on the river near Tan Chau

On Evergreen Island, seldom, if ever, visited by tourists other than those on La Marguerite

A villager on Evergreen Island

Leaving Evergreen Island

Worker carrying rice husks for fueling fires at the brick factory in Sa Dec, Vietnam.

Wednesday, April 7, 5:30 p.m. Cruising Into Tan Chau, Vietnam — The early-evening sun appears as a bright orange orb descending into the Mekong. La Marguerite slows its pace, sailing into Tan Chau, the last Vietnamese outpost before the vessel crosses into Cambodia tomorrow. On board, passengers are enjoying a variety of activities. Some are cooling off in the pool, some are sipping cocktails, some are attempting to get the perfect snapshot of the sunset. All appear happy to be exploring a region relatively new to tourism and river cruising.

Our floating hotel, La Marguerite, anchored off Sa Dec, Vietnam.

On this day and on prior days, we have stepped ashore for tours included in our cruise fare. The tours are well-organized and visually stimulating. Nearly any direction that a camera can be pointed frames a photograph worthy of keeping. Today, nearly midway through our eight-day cruise, and already we have a shoebox full of memories and experiences. “I’ve taken at least 500 photos,” says a man from Helsinki. With each destination, it seems that it cannot get any better, and yet somehow it does.

All kinds of marine traffic on the Mekong.

Today in Sa Dec was no exception. The impression for me and for other passengers I spoke with is that we are touring destinations still unspoiled by mass tourism. Indeed, we see few other Westerners as we walk through the markets and streets of the villages along the Mekong.

Waves and smiles from everyone.

People wave to us, happy when we wave back. Some smile, some laugh, some cover their mouths in embarrassment. “People are eager to talk and communicate with foreigners,” says our articulate and affable guide Thoai.

The tourists are the attractions.

We see no drunks, no beggars, not a single palm extended for a handout. No one is hassling us to buy anything. On the contrary, they joke with us, taunting us with good humor. A Dutch couple has brought their two young children on the cruise. At the market, the kids, ages 5 and 7, giggle when a grinning old woman shoves a live catfish toward them.

Leaving Sa Dec

River cruising only recently started here in the Mekong, and in the towns and villages along the Mekong, it is as if the locals have never seen people of our race. “It’s almost like we are the attractions,” says Rudi Schreiner, president of AMAWATERWAYS. The Southern California-based company began operations on the Mekong in the fall of last year and has plans to build a small fleet of river cruise vessels, operating on the same model that made its European river cruises so successful.

At the market in Sa Dec.

Being here with a complement of passengers from Europe, Australia and only a small group of us from the United States, it is clear that we are all participating in the pioneering of something new. Pandaw Cruises has operated on the Mekong since 2004, but AMAWATERWAYS is bringing a new luxury standard to the river, operating not only the first luxury vessel on the Mekong but also the first river-cruise vessel built by Vietnamese.

Our guide Thoai at the former home of Marguerite Duras.

What Mekong River cruising offers is an authenticity of experience not easily found in a world increasingly overrun by mass tourism. Surely, the Mekong will be exposed to mass tourism in the not-too-distant future, but for now, the Mekong is unspoiled. If the region is on your bucket list, do it soon if you want an authentic experience.

And the experience truly is remarkable. Passengers I talked with express amazement with the destination and high satisfaction with the ship. They rave about the staterooms, food, staff and service. All are better than expected, passengers say.

La Marguerite’s staterooms are spacious, air-conditioned, and feature flat-panel televisions and large bathrooms. Meals are a mix of Asian and Western. Soft drinks, beer, wine and local spirits are served up free of charge. Excursions are included in the cruise fare. Wireless internet, while slow, is free to use. There’s a selection of DVDs and books. Other diversions: spa treatments, sauna, pool and sun deck. Should you be so inclined, there are exercise bikes and treadmills, lectures and even a big-screen, projector-style movie offered on two nights during our cruise.

Last night, we watched the steamy movie, The Lovers, based on a semi-autobiographical novel by the French writer Marguerite Duras (also the ship’s namesake). This morning, we toured the home in Sa Dec where Duras lived between 1928 and 1932, the time period during which the movie was based. Vietnam seems to have changed relatively little from that time period until now. The villages along the Mekong appear to be suspended in time. Some say that Vietnam is like Thailand used to be three or four decades ago. Change comes slowly to the villages along the Mekong.

Tomorrow afternoon, we cross the border into Cambodia. Schreiner says Cambodia represents the more spiritual part of the cruise, with its ubiquitous monks, temples and, of course, Angkor Wat, the world’s largest religious relic. As good as it’s been, perhaps the best is yet to come.

Flowers appear to be a strong symbol here in Southeast Asia. Disembarking the one-hour Thai Air flight from Bangkok to Ho Chi Minh City this morning, I noticed flight attendants distributing orchids to first-class passengers. My daughter was greeted with roses (by our escort and guide for the week). Like the Hawaiian lei, flowers evoke a feeling of welcome.

Bathed in the smell of jasmine, the Sofitel Saigon Plaza is exceptionally welcoming. We were welcomed by attractive young girls in traditional Vietnamese dresses. One of them led us to the Club Sofitel Lounge on the 18th floor, where we checked in. The Club floor overlooks the city and is also where we’ll have evening hors d’hoeuvres and, before setting out to Le Marguerite tomorrow, breakfast.

This afternoon, we head out for a city tour. We’re certain to see more flowers.

How will I get there comfortably? Will I be able to rest on the plane? Are visas required? Shots? Do I need malaria prophylactics? What is the ship like? The food? Will I get sick if I eat something ashore? Will I be too jet-lagged to enjoy the cruise? Will I see Angkor Wat? What type of insurance do I need? Is this the best time to go?

Columbus probably spent less time preparing for his journey across the Atlantic than I spent preparing for mine to Asia. I am assured that the time spent will be worth it. I expect this trip to be transformational, not only for me but also for my 14-year-old daughter.

Up In The Air

As I write these words, she is in the air, flying from Atlanta to Los Angeles. My first challenge: how to collect her.

Because she is an unaccompanied minor, I am required to meet her at the gate. Delta requires children up until the age of 15 to be accompanied from gate to gate. If a guardian cannot accompany, Delta charges a $100 fee (each way) to put the child in a flight attendant’s charge.

At the bookends of the flight, one guardian delivers the child to the airport, all the way to the gate, and the other meets the child at the gate on the receiving end.

Problem is, I have luggage, with liquids, and we’re not flying Delta to Ho Chi Minh City. We’re flying Thai Air, and the Thai Air check-in counter is not open. It will not be open until 8:15 p.m. and my daughter’s flight arrives at 8:30 p.m., in another terminal.

A small challenge: It will be close, but I will check in when the Thai Air counter opens and rush to the Delta gate. I’ve planned in advance by going to the Delta counter to pick up security authorization. Fingers are crossed. Thankfully, both my daughter and I have our mobile phones.

Thai Air, The Best Choice?

I chose Thai Air because of its Economy Premium class. First Class and Business Class were too pricey. But sitting 17 hours in Economy Class would be like enduring some of the finer tortures of the Spanish Inquisition.

Thai Air’s Economy Premium seemed to be the perfect compromise, only a few hundred dollars more than Economy Class, and with generous seating (see Premium Economy Comparison Chart). I’ve read elsewhere that even Thai Air’s Economy Class seating is comfortable, even for those who are 6’5″, like me.

The air was more complicated that it first appeared, because we also needed a ticket from Siem Reap, Cambodia, where our cruise would end, to Ho Chi Minh City. The only practical alternative was Vietnam Airlines, and the airline’s web site was an exercise in frustration. After finding the flights that would work, I entered all of our personal information as well as payment information. My credit card was not accepted.

After some effort, I found a number to call and was advised to call my credit card company. I did so. Rinse and repeat. I called the airline representative again. “Our web site really is not all that good,” a lady on the other end told me. Could she take a credit card? No. Her company was only the booking agent, not the airline. Conceding defeat, I called a travel agent who was able to book the flight for me, but a few days later received an e-mail that the agency’s credit card was also turned down. The flights were still being held, but I would need to send a check.

AMAWATERWAYS would have gladly handled all of the air arrangements for me, but when it comes to airline seats, I like to be in control.

Visa Requirements

Because we would be entering Vietnam twice (once from the United States and once from Cambodia) we would need a “Multi-Entry Visa.”

Fortunately, this part was easy, but pricey. There are good instructions at the Vietnam Embassy’s website.

You’ll need two passport photos for the Vietnam multi-entry visa (you’ll need two more for the Cambodia visa, which can be issued on the ship). Mail the two photos with a completed application form, passport or copy of passport, with check or money order for $120 per application for the (recommended) expedited service, which promises processing in two working days. Use FedEx or a trackable courier service, and include a prepaid return shipping label. We followed the instructions and received our visas within a couple of days of applying.

You can reach the Vietnam Embassy in Washington, D.C. by calling 1-202-861-2293 or 1-202-861-0694 between the hours of 10 a.m. to 12:30 p.m. and 2:30 p.m to 5:30 p.m. Monday through Friday.

Insurance

Thai Airways offers a fair cancellation policy; refundable before departure for $200. That was flight insurance enough for me.

AMAWATERWAYS offers a trip-cancellation policy, but as we were guests of the company, there was no need for the insurance.

Our Blue Cross Blue Shield health insurance covers us worldwide, so the only worry would be if we were injured in a way that required hospitalization. That’s where Medjet comes in. If we are admitted to a hospital more than 150 miles from home, Medjet will cover the cost of flying us home. There are rules and stipulations, of course. For details, visit Domestic & International Travel Assistance Annual Membership | Medjet Assist. Medjet’s Family Membership goes for $385 annually, a good value in my mind.

Those are some of the questions, and there are more. It’s nearing the time when I should go to the Thai Air check-in counter. If you don’t hear from me for the next 20 hours or so, you can assume all went well. Wish us luck!

Starting this fall, passengers will be able to get the AMAWATERWAYS river cruise experience on the Mekong.

On Sept. 1, the 92-passenger La Marguerite will launch, offering sailings along the Mekong River through Vietnam and Cambodia.

AMAWATERWAYS is offering a 15-day itinerary that includes land tours in Hanoi, Vietnam, and Siem Reap, Cambodia, as well as a seven-day cruise onboard La Marguerite, from Tonle Sap Lake and Phnom Penh in Cambodia, to Vietnam’s Sa Dec and Ho Chi Minh City.

There are five scheduled departures this year on La Marguerite, starting on Sept. 21, and seven scheduled 2010 departures between January and April.

The 92-passenger ship is 235 feet in length with four decks. It has two suite (443 square feet each), six junior suites (284 square feet each), and 38 staterooms (226 square feet each).

Each cabin will be equipped with air conditioning, a sofa, minibar, safe-deposit box, in-house telephone, television, bathroom with shower and hair dryer.

The ship will have one restaurant, two lounge areas, a business center, fitness center, beauty salon and spa, whirlpool and sun deck lounge.

AMAWATERWAYS’ 15-day Mekong River cruise starts at $3,999 per person, including the land portion and round-trip air from Los Angeles or San Francisco.